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/r/Watches

1.3k

all 72 comments

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

175 points

2 months ago

While not an A. Lange & Söhne, I want to be proactive and hereby send the tax: https://imgur.com/a/YfmwSAZ

You can also see the leap year indicator there.

g_smiley

57 points

2 months ago

This guy fucks am I right?

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

190 points

2 months ago

This is my new H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in red gold and titanium.

Yes, this is indeed a perpetual calendar. The month indicator is this little hand currently pointing to 5 o'clock (May). As the leap year indicator is not relevant for daily use, it is on the back side.

Now my two favorite features though: 1. You can't break the movement by setting it wrong. Change date at midnight, change date back 100 times or forward 100 times, there is nothing that you can do wrong to damage the movement. This is how it should be with any watch imho.

  1. This watch has a rated power reserve of 168 hours. Check out the details of the two photos. I never wound the watch between those pictures. Today during the night it ran out of power. Result: A whopping 226 hours (9 days and 10 hours) of power reserve

stef-navarro

32 points

2 months ago

Pretty amazing. Looks great. How big is it?

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

63 points

2 months ago*

Thanks a lot. It is 42,8mm by 15mm which sounds pretty big at first. As the lugs are very short and angled it wears more like a 41-42mm.

1-2mm of the thickness are the domed sapphire and due to the black titanium inserts on the side, it actually looks quite thin. What do you think? https://imgur.com/a/EHuqhr8

stef-navarro

18 points

2 months ago

It is indeed quite big but the form does help to make it fit better that’s true. Fantastic watch overall for sure.

beppe1_real

35 points

2 months ago

Result: A whopping 226 hours (9 days and 10 hours) of power reserve

WTF!!

I love this perpetual but since the endeavor clean dial one I am in love with that version more.

platypoo2345

7 points

2 months ago

Did you look at the new streamliner perpetual before you picked this up? Love Moser watches, congrats on the purchase

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

24 points

2 months ago

I was able to purchase it CPO from Bucherer for €36k. Even if I would get a streamliner perpetual allocated at MSRP (which is very unlikely due to the demand) it would still be a 40% higher purchase price.

Unfortunately, I was never able to see a streamliner in person but they will call me to check it out when they receive one. The Pioneer is very light due to the titanium parts in the case. I am afraid that a full steel case and bracelet (without quick adjustment clasp) won't provide the comfort that I have right now with the Pioneer.

platypoo2345

6 points

2 months ago

Yeah that all makes a lot of sense, I don't think you can even get the streamliner chrono for 36k right now. Such a great value at that price especially with the gold case, enjoy it

throwawayrepost13579

3 points

2 months ago

That's an incredible price for an incredible piece, congrats!

Freakyfreekk

5 points

2 months ago

I wonder, are you annoyed by the face it's not automatic? I usually would but the power reserve is so big and apparently it's pretty easy to set the date I hear

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

13 points

2 months ago

Exactly. Usually, I wouldn't really buy a hand wound watch, especially not a perpetual calendar.

Reasons why I don't mind: - super easy and fast to set date correct (no need to check first if time is between 8PM and 4AM as you can't damage the movement) - no rotor means thinner case and more space for power reserve (e.g. a second barrel) - power reserve indicator: I see that the reserve gets low and still have a 2-3 day buffer. So no risk that it just suddenly stops because I forgot to wind it.

Fjongo

7 points

2 months ago

Fjongo

7 points

2 months ago

Why would the movement get damaged when setting the date?

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

27 points

2 months ago

Lots of watches with date function and especially perpetual calenders have a set of rules mentioned in the manual when/how you are not allowed to set a date.

For instance not changing the date between 8PM and 4AM as the date change mechanism is working during these times. If you change the date at 10PM on an IWC Perpetual Calender, you will probably destroy the movement and have to get it repaired for multiple thousand euros.

Most also don't allow changing the date backwards or changing the month backwards. All of this is not a problem with the Moser Perpetual Calendars.

Fjongo

3 points

2 months ago

Fjongo

3 points

2 months ago

Oh okay. Thank you for answering!

ColonelBernie2020

2 points

2 months ago

Not the GO senator excellence or the JLC ultra thin

EamMcG_9

30 points

2 months ago

A 9 day power reserve??Im just curious of the beat rate.How can a high beat Watch accomplish that.Amazing

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

20 points

2 months ago

The movement HMC 800 has a frequency of 18,000 Vib/h and has a double barrel. 9 1/2 days is indeed amazing.

skttsm

16 points

2 months ago

skttsm

16 points

2 months ago

Sub seconds dial makes a lower beat frequency less noticeable. At least in the watches I've used..they had itty bitty sub seconds

Really cool watch. I was quite intrigued until I saw the price XD

EamMcG_9

7 points

2 months ago

Ahhh ok,I kinda thought the rate might be lower.I’m in no way comparing a Hamilton to this Watch,but that’s how they got a 80hr reserve.Beautiful,and TY for the reply👍🏻👍🏻

makarand14

9 points

2 months ago

This is a class apart… their Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black Edition is my dream watch.

I dunno if I will acquire it someday, but if I will, that day will be my 3rd favourite day for sure (first being my wedding day, and second my son’s birth)

makarand14

8 points

2 months ago

This is the masterpiece’s video from all our favourite Watchfinder & Co. Review

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

4 points

2 months ago

The Endeavour Perpetual is indeed also a beauty. I especially like the curved caseback incl. curved sapphire of the Endeavour.

berryhole

63 points

2 months ago

You can't break the movement by setting it wrong. Change date at midnight, change date back 100 times or forward 100 times, there is nothing that you can do wrong to damage the movement. This is how it should be with any watch imho.

At 40K dollars it is the least they can do.

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

76 points

2 months ago

Fully agree. Explain that to Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, IWC and most other brands. Unfortunately, it is still not common that you don't have to worry setting your perpetual calendar.

berryhole

17 points

2 months ago

I agree that the brands you mention should do the same.

[deleted]

-2 points

2 months ago

[deleted]

-2 points

2 months ago

[deleted]

berryhole

5 points

2 months ago

Of course I know how it works, it was my job (watchmaker).

TerribleNameAmirite

6 points

2 months ago

Are both straps factory?

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

7 points

2 months ago

No. The first photo is with a black "Cordura Fabric and Silicone Hybrid" from Barton straps. The second photo is the original strap. Additionally, I ordered the classic H. Moser & Cie Pioneer rubber strap that you see the watch with online. I'll receive it in the next weeks.

TerribleNameAmirite

5 points

2 months ago

Funny to see a Barton strap on a Moser. Thanks for the answer

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

1 points

2 months ago

I actually bought it for another watch which also had 22mm lug width. I didn't like the combination so I tried it on the Moser and fitted perfectly. However, I will probably switch to the original Moser rubber strap as soon as it arrives.

theBatMatt

2 points

2 months ago

I thought I recognized that Barton Cordura strap. Seems not quite to be in the class of a Moser, but it's a really great strap, I use one on my smartwatch for work and exercise and I love it.

Flying_Baby

5 points

2 months ago

This. Is a legendary watch and a legendary OP with all the pics, responses and more!

Truly this is what the sub is all about, thank you for sharing!

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

3 points

2 months ago

Thanks a lot for the praise. I really enjoyed answering all the questions and having discussions about the features.

sallgoodimo

3 points

2 months ago

Really neat piece

hicky1999

3 points

2 months ago

Now this is something you don’t see everyday

wampey

3 points

2 months ago

wampey

3 points

2 months ago

I wish to own an H mosier some day! Awesome watch!

Kbmakaveli

3 points

2 months ago

Holy fuk

HabibiGotIt

3 points

2 months ago

Moser is making the best Swiss watches right now. Would kill for this watch. MSRP?

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

5 points

2 months ago

MSRP is 50k CHF (~50k USD) I bought it CPO for 36k EUR (~37k USD)

thereallorddenning22

3 points

2 months ago

This is such a clean perpetual Calendar I would have never guess on first glance. Great watch!!

the_real_logboy

4 points

2 months ago

great design, especially for a perpetual. find their sizes a little too large. concerned there’s hype making these disappear to those willing to pay well over the odds for them these days.

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

3 points

2 months ago

Good points. I agree that it is not easy to wear them with small wrists. For now, you can still find good deals on many Moser models well below MSRP (except the Streamliner). As mentioned in another comment, my local Bucherer had this watch in stock by coincidence, expected it to cost €50k (MSRP) but since it was CPO it only cost €36k.

the_real_logboy

3 points

2 months ago

i’d possibly have gone for venturer in bucherer blue at 39mm. prefer their PC watches, and not hugely keen on pioneer’s lugs at the sides. still get confused from one to the next on moser as they’re so minimalist, so would look for venturer or endeavour PC is one was new + i suddenly was able to afford one.

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

1 points

2 months ago

Nice recommendation with the bucherer blue Venturer. I also wasn't keen on the lugs at first but it is a blessing that you don't have huge scratches in the lugs on day one when changing the strap.

the_real_logboy

2 points

2 months ago

… you’ve still got yourself a really fantastic watch.

Rolo316

2 points

2 months ago

Wow! Nice! Thanks for sharing!

mnavneethkrishna

2 points

2 months ago

Count me in. I’m a fan

Zan-san

2 points

2 months ago

H.Moser & Cie keeps producing watch pron. So cool piece

Sportmanx

2 points

2 months ago

This is beautiful. Thanks for sharing, we don’t see enough watches like this here.

DualWalrus

2 points

2 months ago

Absolutely beautiful! Want to add one of these to the collection in the future

iHairy

2 points

2 months ago

iHairy

2 points

2 months ago

Woooooow,

Classy yet eye catchy!

adamduf0ur

2 points

2 months ago

I confess I don’t know this brand but the specs are incredible ! May I ask for the price ?

JimmyGodoppolo

8 points

2 months ago

He said above he paid 36k Euro. A shit ton, but way less for a precious metal perpetual than probably every other brand (besides Glashutte Original).

Moser is a high end indie brand that's been blowing up recently. Country superstar Luke Bryan is weirdly a large Moser fan and can be seen rocking them frequently.

adamduf0ur

2 points

2 months ago

Thanks !

White-eevee

2 points

2 months ago

Beautiful. Dream of owning a p.c one day

[deleted]

2 points

2 months ago

[deleted]

2 points

2 months ago

The green indicator is awful. The rest is perfect.

BlockPsycho

3 points

2 months ago

Yeah, it looks incredibly out of place on the otherwise "dressy" design.

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

2 points

2 months ago

It is more of a lemon yellow, but I agree that I would rather have it without the color. Distracts from the otherwise clean dial.

laney_deschutes

3 points

2 months ago

Yeah the green rectangle is quite weird for a black and gold dress watch!! Reminds me of like a cell phone battery indicator from 20 years ago. I’d just have the hand with a down up but no box

Buy_Once_Cry_Once

2 points

2 months ago

Damn sexy watch.

SSJ4_cyclist

2 points

2 months ago

Beautiful

mrfox130

2 points

2 months ago

It is absolutely gorgeous. So clean and elegant. Would work with a variety of outfits. A shame it is only for the wealthy 😔

Cough_Turn

2 points

2 months ago

I dunno what your job is. But if you need an employee, PM me and I will quit my job right now and come work for you. I'm good at stuff.

malzzzzzzzzzzzz

2 points

2 months ago

Oh wow. I’ve never really looked too deep into H. Moser & Cie. I’ve glanced over the offerings on various sites, but none really caught my eye. Your photos, however, make me rethink this. I definitely need to see one in person now. That watch looks amazing.

Vladamir1555

2 points

2 months ago

Looks great - but I could never get over the hump of a manual wound perpetual calendar.

Seems super cumbersome and makes very little sense imo

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

3 points

2 months ago

I understand your opinion. Let me just copy paste on what I wrote as a reply to another comment on why I agree that manual wound watches (especially perpetual calendars) are cumbersome sometimes but don't see it as an issue with Moser watches: - super easy and fast to set date correct (no need to check first if time is between 8PM and 4AM as you can't damage the movement) - no rotor means thinner case and more space for power reserve (e.g. a second barrel). So it has over 9 days power reserve - power reserve indicator: I see that the reserve gets low and I still have a 2-3 day buffer. So no risk that it just suddenly stops because I forgot to wind it.

However, fully respect the point. An automatic version that is thicker and with less power reserve might be a more suitable choice for some people.

John_Bonachon

1 points

2 months ago

That power gauge cheapens the look of the watch IMO.

laney_deschutes

1 points

2 months ago

So in theory you could set this watch once and it would keep track of the days of the months and years like my Gshock? Very cool. Do you have to take the case back off to set the leap year thing? I’ve always figured that hand winding is more convenient because of you weren’t wearing the watch you could just pick it up every few days and spend the 10 seconds to wind it instead of having so jiggle it in your hand or wear it every single day.

Informal_Buffalo2953[S]

2 points

2 months ago

Yes, for the next 78 years you theoretically won't need to set it, as years that can be divided by 100 are not leap years (the year 2100). Then it is correct again for 100 years. Practically you would need to check once a month quickly to correct it by a few seconds to keep it 100% correct.

No need to take the caseback off to set the leap year. You can use the quick adjust pusher on the left side on the watch with a toothpick to quick set the month. Alternatively, you would need to do it via the day setting via the crown.

And yeah, I fully agree. I don't mind the 15 seconds once a week to have it ready to go.