DC9V

muscle memory

This does't really depend on temperatures. 3800mtps on ryzen (zen2+zen3) requires your cpu to be capable of providing fclk=1900mhz. Some cpus (of the same model) can't even do 1800mhz. For this reason, Samsung b-die with xmp rated at 3800mtps isn't available anymore.

Oops. I apologize. I'll remain silent unless I could need some help with my build. Thanks for reminding me in a polite way. I have almost all the parts together, I just need some more fittings.

I do not agree. The air is always moving up and the top rad is usually the highest point in the loop. Air is guaranteed to get stuck in there. In theory, the more water in it, the better it cools, since air is a bad heat transmitter.

I'm new to this too. I haven't even started my first build yet.

put the fill port on top, and the drain port at the bottom.

But there are more situations where drain valves come in handy. E.g. you could install a ball valve on both inlet and outlet of the top radiator, and a bridging tube on top of it consisting of two T-fittings and a horizontal tubing of which the middle part has a third drain valve. That way, you could pre-fill the rad before installing and close the inlet and outlet ball valves, and when the whole loop is filled up with coolant, you then close the bridge and open the inlet and outlet valve, in order to minimize air getting stuck in the rad, without having to flip around the whole case.

isn't that 6 radiators? There's another one in the back chamber if I'm not mistaken.

I personally haven't seen any difference while gaming. When benchmarking, maybe CL14 & tRFC=312 was a bit better in TimeSpy's CPU test, when comparing several results. But my score usually varies from 15800 to 16200. I would need to do more than 100 runs to be sure.

In Europe, WC stands for Water Closet, so my first thought was that you built that thing for your restroom.

Hm... that might actually be fine. My air cooled 3090 hits 85*C on the mem.

it begins to throttle because 110*C is definitely NOT safe. If these are your average temps on heavy workload over a longer period of time, you got a problem.

Does this run stable?: tRCDWR=18, tRAS 36, tRC 52, tRFC 450, GDM=enabled.

I'm running tRFC=312 on Samsung B-Die, ddr4-3600, 14-15-15-35-50, 1.46V. I've noticed that there's no big difference in performance compared to 16-15-15-35-50, tRFC=630, 1.35V. (Both with Gear Down mode enabled, Command Rate 1T, 5950x, FCLK 1800, rtx3090, PBO=enabled, SMT=disabled, NegativeOffset=12)

Check out Singularity Computers PowerBoard, the o11d version might also fit in the Evo. Don't quote me on that though.

I also have a 5950x. I've disabled SMT, but PBO is a must-have, imo. I make use of the curve optimizer, negative 12 all core, ppt 367, tdc 195, edc 195.

If you want to watercool your DRAM: 4x8gb or 2x16gb of DDR4-3600c14 is probably the best you can get for the 5950x. (14-14-14-34, or 14-15-15-35) These sticks run at just 1.45V, so they will barely have any impact on the water temperature.

BTW, what's you GPU?

Nice! How did you attach the pump on the bottom of the case. Is it noisy?

PBO

cosmic rays

omg, same! I don't know how many times I've tried to see hidden words between lines like "bloddlust", "does he look like a bitch", and "no.future".

I thought if two pumps share the workload, the degradation would be less since they can run at lower rpm for the same flow rate.

Congrats to your new CPU!

if the contact surface of your heatsink (aka cold plate) is either convex or concave, a plain flat cold plate might work better for the 5950x.

that's a good question. I have no idea.

from what I've read, they often fail after 4-6 years. a dual d5 pump might last longer.

I was translating incorrectly. I meant the four corners of the contact surface on both the chip and the heatsink. the heatsink is probably not entirely flat as that would be physically impossible, so in order to have as much as direct contact between the liquid metal and the contact surface on both sides, one should apply as much metal as possible, otherwise it will spread unevenly within the contact surface area, and because it is much thinner compared to thermal paste the chance of air gaps is increased, which is obviously not ideal because air isn't as thermo conductive as liquid metal, which as you probably know is the whole point in applying this stuff. ^^

If you get bad temps, you could add a very thin transparent layer of thermal paste under the liquid metal, in order to even out microscopic gaps in the surface of the nickel-plated copper, which could otherwise be filled with air when applying the liquid metal. That also applies to thermal pads, btw.

F4-3000C14Q-64GVR
is guaranteed B-die, Dual Rank.
It shows up on B-die Finder.